Planning your Morocco trip

Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are the most comfortable seasons for the cities and the Atlas. Summer is very hot inland and in the desert; winter is mild on the coast but cold in the mountains.

When to go
Getting around

Trains link Casablanca, Rabat, Marrakech, Fes and Tangier comfortably. For the Atlas and the desert, hire a driver or join a small-group tour. Inside the medinas lanes are too narrow for cars, so pack light and expect to walk.

On the ground

Carry some cash in dirhams for markets, taxis and small cafes. Bargaining is normal in the souks: greet first, ask the price, and keep it friendly. Cooperatives and fixed-price shops are a good option if haggling is not for you.

Money and bargaining
Dress and etiquette

Dress modestly in towns, with shoulders and knees covered, which also helps with sun and dust. Ask before photographing people, remove your shoes if invited into a home, and accept the offer of mint tea.

Staying and eating

A riad in the medina gives you the courtyard, the tilework and the quiet. Choose one close to a main gate if you are carrying luggage, since the lanes are too narrow for cars and most riads will arrange a porter.

Where to stay
Eating well

Eat where locals queue. Try tagine and pastilla, couscous (traditionally served on Fridays), and fresh mint tea throughout the day. Bottled water is the safe default for drinking.